![](http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-xPv8HTIj6G4/Tcw0zxjyLoI/AAAAAAAADC4/_V5GhgvRRJw/s400/100_2577.jpg)
Bridges are easier to adjust height-wise if they aren't permanently glued down, so a slotted base is what I like to use. The tightened strings hold the bridge down onto the saddle. If the strings are too high I can sand the bottom of the bridge down and then click it back into the saddle. If the strings are too low I can put a strip of veneer or some credit card plastic under the bridge. So far I've never had to do that, but the option is there if I need it, and I have been trying to come up with a good excuse to cut up some of Mei's credit cards.
![](http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-L6mVxGXs4TA/Tcw0zs582DI/AAAAAAAADCw/kkkgCGWDF04/s400/100_2578.jpg)
Here's the Nut. It's wide at the bottom for sturdy support, and then thin at the top so the strings are resting on a sharper edge.
![](http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-jeFOmJg_PZU/Tcw0zeSODdI/AAAAAAAADCo/MWuwXvkrLKk/s400/100_2580.jpg)
On the other side you can see 2 pencil lines. the lower line represents the fretboard surface. The upper line shows me how deep the string grooves need to be. The distance between those 2 lines is just barely more than the height of a fret.
![](http://3.bp.blogspot.com/-FShsffgW-HE/Tcw0zFucEeI/AAAAAAAADCg/L46icP2Yt30/s400/100_2584.jpg)
More to come.
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